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 Potential cat owners should think carefully about what
sort of cat they would like and whether they have suitable
accommodation, time and finances. Kittens are cuddly but a mature cat
that requires re-homing will have already developed a character that
you can see and bond to immediately. The Pedigree cats have specific
charms and characters and 'Moggies' are varied and fascinating in their
individuality - the choice is yours.
Development of Pedigree Breeds
It
was not until the middle of the 19th century that people in Britain and
Europe started to selectively breed cats and record their pedigrees.
The breeding programs started with ordinary moggies also known as
domestic shorthaired cats (DSH). Breeders selected individuals for
their breeding programs depending on their body shape and coat colour.
From these ancestors through years of selective breeding the British
and European Shorthair breeds have been created. In America the same
process occurred with the descendants of cats taken over by settlers
200 years earlier. Selective breeding from this stock has resulted in
the American Shorthair which has quite different characteristics to the
British and European Shorthairs. During this period there were
longhaired domestic cats around but the pedigree longhair breeds
initially came from the Angora cat which originated in Turkey and later
form longhaired breeds imported from Persia and Afghanistan. The breeds
developed from cats from Persia and Afghanistan quickly became known as
Persians and became very popular at the expense of the Angora which
almost disappeared. By the end of the 19th century pedigree cats were
being imported and exported and the Siamese, Russian Blue and
Abyssinian had reached Britain. In the 20th century the spread of
pedigree cats accelerated and new breeds and colour varieties were also
developed.
Cat Shows as we know them today were the idea of an
Englishman called Harrison Weir who held the first National Cat Show in
1871 at the Crystal Palace in London. As interest in showing cats grew
in Britain the National Cat Club was formed in 1887 and Harrison Weir
was its president. It established a stud book to register pedigree cats
and record their pedigrees. Later the National Cat Club amalgamated
with another club to become the Governing Council of the Cat Fancy
(GCCF). In 1983 a further registering body was established called the
Cat Association of Britain (CAB). Now most countries have at least one
governing body which in addition to registration of pedigree cats also
oversee the standards for each recognised breed. These breed standards
are regularly reviewed and provide guidelines for breeders and judges
alike.
There are now seven basic groups of cat, eight if you
include the most popular group of all cats , the non-pedigree domestic
moggie.
1) Non-pedigree 2) Longhair Persian Type 3) Longhair Non-Persian Type 4) British and American Shorthairs 5) Other Shorthair Breeds 6) Oriental Shorthairs 7) Burmese 8) Siamese
The
popularity of pedigree cat breeds changes from one year to the next but
some of the most popular are the Persian, Siamese, British Shorthair,
Burmese, Birman, Main Coon, Abyssinian, and recently the Bengal.
Popular Cat Breed Characteristics
Persian
- In Britain Persians are known for the purposes of breeding and
showing as Longhairs. This group also contains Chinchillas. Persians
have a stocky build with thick legs, a rounded head with a short nose
and large eyes. The coat is full and thick and coat and eye colours
vary. They are not generally temperamental and make good family pets
although they do need daily grooming of up to an hour a day.
Exotics
- The Exotic Shorthair is a relatively recent hybrid created in the USA
by crossing American Shorthairs with Persians. The original intention
was improve the Persian breed by creating a more Persian looking
Persian, not to create a new breed type. However some of the cats
produced were short haired Persian types which had the obvious
advantage of reduced grooming. In 1986 the breed of Exotic Shorthair
was recognised by the GCCF. Exotics are cobby like Persians without the
long coat. While the coat is short it is plush and dense not flat like
of the British Shorthair.
Siamese - These are medium sized
cats with dainty, long, bone structure but strong muscles. The hind
legs are longer than the fore legs, the body is tubular and the tail is
whip like. The head is wedge shaped with almond shaped, always blue
eyes which point towards a long nose the ears are large and pointed.
The coat is short and fine with colour varieties at the points (the
mask, ears, lower legs, feet and tail, the cooler areas). The body
colour is paler but compliments the points. Siamese cats have a
boisterous and intelligent temperament which means they are a handful
and owners must be prepared to devote them plenty of time. They have a
highly developed variety of cries for all occasions to gain attention.
Despite this vocal nature it is a breed which dislikes loud noises.
Siamese cats often attach themselves to one person and can become
jealous if they that person pays attention to others. They are
distrustful of strangers. They do not like being ignored or left for
long periods because of their sensitive nature which renders them
liable to mood swings and unpredictable behaviour. They are easy to
train and enjoy games including acrobatics and twice weekly coat
grooming. They can be very territorial and can become accomplished
fighters and hunters. Siamese are a long lived breed and will normally
see their 15th birthday.
British Shorthair - British and
European Shorthairs are one in the same, the North American equivalent
is the American Shorthair. It is a solid, strong, majestic, hardy and
adaptable breed. Its stocky or cobby appearance is due to its broad
chest, level back, short strong legs and thick tail. Its head is broad
and round with well developed cheeks, the head sits on a short neck.
The eyes are large and round and have a wide-awake expression. British
Shorthairs are laid back enjoying both play and solitude. It is
intelligent and accommodates to family life well provided there is a
predictable routine. Its coat needs twice weekly grooming.
Burmese
- The Burmese is described as a medium-sized, muscular breed. The legs
are slender and the hind legs are slightly longer than the fore legs.
The head tapers from high cheek bones in a medium-blunt wedge to a
short well developed muzzle. The ears are medium sized with rounded
points. There are a wide varity of colours but classically they are
brown, the eyes are always yellow or gold. The Burmese is a sweet
natured cat equally happy in a flat, town or country house. It is an
athletic breed which enjoys games with is owner or other companion
cats. They are intensely sociable and dislike being left alone and can
have a tendency to jealousy.
 Photo by kind permission of Chiaro Burmese Birman - Are large cats
but less cobby than the Persian with long silky hair that tends to get
wavy on the stomach. There is a well developed thick, heavy ruff and a
bushy, plume like tail. Classically the body colour should be even and
the point colour should be confined to the points but there should be
symmetrical white feet. The coat required regular grooming but does not
tend to mat. The head is broad and round with a Roman nose and wide
based, rounded tipped ears. They are generally a very placid breed
which is playful but not boisterous. They do not enjoy going outside
that much but do like open spaces and do not like being confined which
make boarding catteries a potential problem. Breeders in America have
developed short-haired varieties known as Snowshoes.
Main Coon -
A large, solid, rugged, muscular cat with a long, smooth, shaggy coat
with a silky texture which is short on the face and shoulders but
longer on the undercarriage and hind legs. The body is long with a
level back and a broad chest and a medium length tail, the strong legs
are set well apart. The head is large with a square chin and high cheek
bones, the nose is broad and of a medium length. The ears are large and
well tufted tapering to a point. The eyes are large, set well apart and
slightly slant. There are many different coat colours. They make
excellent household pets and often adopt one particular member of the
family as a favourite. They have some semi-wild characteristics, they
are good hunters and choose good hiding places to sleep and use as
bolt-holes when startled and are impervious to the cold.
Abyssinian
- The Abyssinian is a medium sized cat with a slender but muscular
appearance. The tail has a thick base that tapers to a point. The head
is medium with large pointed ears with tufts, the eyes are almond
shaped and slightly slanted. The coat is short but long enough for each
hair to have two or three bands of ticking. The Abyssinian is a good
companion but is wary of strangers. They respond well to training and
enjoy games.
 Barijka Oloroso - Photograph courtesy of Beausancy Bengals Bengal
- The Bengal is a wild cat hybrid resulting from crosses between
domestic cats often the Egyptian Mau and the Asian Leopard Cat (Felis
bengalensis or Prionailurus bengalensis). In the first generation of
hybrid the F1 kitten has an Asian Leopard Cat (ALC) parent (usually the
sire) and a domestic parent (usually the queen). An F1 kitten is one
generation removed from the ALC. Male kittens of these early crosses
are usually infertile so females are usually used as foundation sock.
For this reason the F2 usually has an F1 mother and a domestic sire and
is two generations removed form the ALC. The F3 usually has an F2
mother and a domestic sire and is three generations removed from the
ALC. The ALC is protected under the Convention on International Trade
of Endangered Species (CITES) and the early hybrids F1, F2, and F3 are
often the subject of permits depending on the local authorities. These
"close to the wild" hybrids require special care, handling and housing
because their habits and temperament is unpredictable. Their feral,
wild beauty makes them striking animals but their temperament is
determined by each individuals inheritance. If an individual did not
inherit the domestic gene from its domestic mother it will display a
wild temperament. Careful selection of hybrids displaying a domestic
disposition ensures that further generations meet the requirements of
domesticity. The Domestic Bengal must be an F4 which is four
generations removed from the ALC or a greater number of generations
removed from the ALC. Bengal cats still tend to display a strong wild
streak and are often described as having a feral expression. There are
several colours (brown and the snows) and patterns (spotted and
marble).
Benefits of Cat Ownership
Numerous
studies have confirmed that there are psychological and medical
benefits of cat ownership. For these reasons pets are being used in
therapeutic programs for people with psychological for physical
problems because they assist or facilitate recovery. For ordinary
people cats provide:
* Companionship - this is the most important factor for most owners. * Comfort and support - cats can provide apparent emotional support. * Help to establish new friendships - cat owners are more socially interactive. * Increased self-esteem - ownership and responsibility of care improve self-worth. * An aid to leisure and relaxation - cat care and playing games. * Increased hygiene - families with pets are more hygiene conscious. * Benefits to children - improved social skills and the understanding the cycle of life. * Benefits to elderly - companionship and a daily purpose.
* Therapeutic benefits - If you own a cat you are likely to:- live
longer, have lower blood pressure, have a reduced risk of heart
attacks, suffer less stress and gain more relief from tension, have
increased emotional strength, reduced risk of depression, have improved
motivation and purpose, be less aggressive, be less self-centred, more
supportive of others and less judgmental.
Choosing a Cat
Not
everyone chooses their cat, sometimes the cat chooses the owner.
However if it is you doing the choosing then there are some important
factors to first consider.
* Is your cat to be a companion or for breeding and showing? * What other animals do you already have? * Is your property suitable? (high rise flats and busy roads) * Can you afford a cat? * Have you got the time to care for a cat? * Are there any asthmatics in the family?
Pedigree or Non-pedigree?
If
you want to show and/or breed cats then your probably better off with a
pedigree. The main advantage of pedigree cats is the ability to predict
what sort of cat you are going to end up with. Good breeders will allow
you to see the mother and father which is the best indicator of what
your cat is likely to be like. Generally pedigree cats have predictable
temperaments and physical characteristics and inherited faults.
Responsible pedigree kitten breeders do not allow kittens to go to new
homes before 12 weeks of age by which time they are likely to be house
trained and vaccinated. Some breeders have adult cats that are surplus
to requirements that are sometimes available as pets once they have
been neutered. It is easier to determine the temperament of an adult
cat compared to a kitten. Pedigree cats are available from some rescue
centres.
Most pet cats are non-pedigree cats and you are
unlikely to get much information about a kittens ancestry but if you're
lucky you may get to meet the mother. Non-pedigree kittens are usually
offered to homes between 6 and 8 weeks of age when they will be weaned,
partly socialised but not house trained or vaccinated. Non-pedigree
kittens and adult cats are often available from Animal Shelters.
Kittens and cats that have been through Animal Shelters have an
increased risk of exposure to and infections from contagious diseases.
Kittens may be available form pet owners whose cats have had a litter
and vets are often able to provide contact details in such cases.
Choosing the Sex
There
is little to choose from between the sexes once they have been
neutered. However if you want to breed then you probably want a female
because male stud cats don't usually make good pets. Entire male stud
cats are usually kept in separate out-door runs because of their
antisocial scent-marking behaviour.
Choosing an Individual
If
you are choosing a kitten from a litter firstly check the mother cat,
check that she has no signs of illness and that she is of a mild
temperament. Next check the kittens for the same criteria. You want to
avoid kittens that are excessively fearful or aggressive as these are
traits that may persist into adulthood. Look for bright, playful
kittens not dull or lethargic kittens which have runny eyes and noses.
Many diseases have incubation periods where an individual may be
infected but shows no symptoms. Most disease incubation periods are
less than a fortnight. Occasionally a family will take on what
initially looked like a healthy cat or kitten but shortly after arrival
at its new home it may start to show symptoms of disease. Any new
arrival should receive an independent health check from your vet.
 Many
people, me included, believe it is better to get two kittens at once.
This not only provides companionship for the cats but also allows an
owner to realise that cats have very individual characters.
New
cats should be kept in for at least a month before being let outside
during the day and brought in at night, most road traffic accidents
(RTA's) occur at night. Kittens should be kept in until they are immune
to the major cat diseases, that is two weeks after their final
vaccination, and until there are of a sufficient size to deal with
neighbourhood cats. They can go outside if they are supervised but are
best kept in until they are 5-6 months of age.
Integrating New Cats
One
serious potential problem of introducing cats together is the spread of
disease. These risks can be minimised by taking the following
precautions. Ideally both newcomers and existing cats should be
vaccinated and immune to the major cat diseases before introduction.
The newcomer should be tested for any diseases that cannot be
vaccinated against to prevent it introducing them to existing cats. The
newcomer should be isolated from the existing cats for a fortnight
before the introduction process begins to allow any incubating diseases
to show themselves.
Generally speaking most cats are territorial
and the one thing which really stresses them out is another cat moving
into their territory. Cats are more likely to accept a kitten than
another cat moving in on their territory because they consider it less
of a threat. The introduction process should be slow, keep the newcomer
separated in one room, allow its confidence to build and allow existing
cats to become accustomed to its smell. Ideally a complete isolation
period of 14 days should elapse before the introduction process begins.
Cats are very smell oriented and this is an important factor in
introducing cats. After the 14 days feed the cats separately but
interchange feeding and grooming equipment to mix the cats scents
up. After a week or two prepare to introduce the cats, cut both
cats front claws to reduce the risks of injury and to reduce confidence
levels slightly in both cats. Continue to feed them separately and
ensure that there is plenty of food to avoid any competition.
Introducing new cats or kittens to existing dogs is much the same as for existing cats.
Cats
have basic instincts to hunt small mammals, birds and fish so any of
these are existing pets then precautions must be taken to protect them.
Children
need to be taught how to hold and carry a cat early on to avoid injury
to themselves or the cat. Young babies in their cots or pushchairs
should be protected from cats jumping onto them or sleeping on them.
This is best achieved with cat nets that go over the top of cots.
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